Knoydart Walk - Day Three

There’s no doubt about the beauty of Barrisdale and the solitude. I could have stayed here a week. But I was conscious of the need to keep moving, to edge a little closer back towards civilisation, so that I was at least within easy distance of Fort William and my train back home.


Loch Hourn


Ladhar Bheinn


Ladhar Bheinn


Ladhar Bheinn

An early start saw me on the long path up to Kinloch Hourn. Ladhar Bheinn was at last standing in all it’s glory across the loch and I slightly wished I’d been a little more flexible in my plans and waited for a day like to today to climb it. Still the walk alongside the loch was superb. Didn’t see a soul for the first couple of hours then when I did meet someone going in the opposite direction he kindly pointed out a pair of Otters who were fishing languorously out in the loch. I’ve always wanted to see an Otter in the wild and although they were some distance from shore I spend quite a while watching them.


Loch Hourn

At Kinloch Hourn the temptations of the cafe proved too much and a pot of tea and cake for just £2 was a real pick me up and set me up for the afternoon. I wanted to get over to Glen Shiel, or at least close to it, as i figured that that would be my best route home. Leaving Kinloch Hourn in a northerly direction I set of up the remote Allt Choire Sgoireadail on a mostly excellent path. This really came into it’s own higher up as it approached the Bealach and although not well used was simply a delight to walk on.


Allt Choire Sgoireadail


Glen Quoich

As the day had been warm and sunny I planned a night camp in the mountains but really wanted to get over the watershed and into Glen Sheil before stopping. I dropped into Glen Quoich then up again, this time without the assistance of a path to the top of Bealach Dubh Leac. Slowing down all the while I put on a brew whilst deciding on the next move. There was a small lochan between Sgurr na Sgine and The Saddle which on the map at least offered interesting possibilities. This also had the advantage of taking me across the top of Sgurr na Sgine which would add a further Munro to the tally.


Sgurr na Sgine

The weather, and my stamina were deteriorating as I finally reached the top of Sgurr na Sgine, only to be overtaken by a posse of runners, one who was making an attempt on the Munros 24 hour record. I wished them well and turned my attention to a campsite. From above it did not look at all promising but by this time I was too knackered to descend to Glen Shiel and soon found a little niche between the boulders on the sheltered side of the Bealach.


Campsite

No sooner had I settled in than the weather, which had been deteriorating since about 5:00pm took a turn for the worse and the wind and rain started. Thankfully I was fairly sheltered but soon realised my ancient 3 season sleeping bag was no longer up to the job. Oh how I wished for a fleece hat and spent a cold miserable night, sleeping fitfully.